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Instructions PN-002 67 Electronic Headlight Motors Disconnect battery before installing: Unbolt and remove the Rally Sport headlamp door assembly. There are two bolts on the radiator support and two on the fender. Remove the old motor and hardware by unbolting the two small bolts holding the old motor to the motor mounting plate. The motor door arm will be re-used later. Important: The control box marked "D" mounts to the driver�s side, while the control box marked "P" installs on the passenger side. Two 10-24 sized holes in the motor mount bracket will serve as the new motors mounting bolt holes. You must drill two corresponding holes in the motor mounting plate. Sometimes a plastic tipped hammer is needed to slightly "massage" the back of the headlight housing for motor clearance. This will not interfere with the headlamp operation or headlamp alignment. Secure the motor to the mounting plate using the two supplied 10-24 bolts and Nyloc nuts. Important: To prevent motor arm interference, the 10-24 bolt heads must be on the motor output side of the mounting plate, while the Nyloc nuts should be used on the motor side of the mounting plate. The control box installs directly next to the motor to the side of the headlight capsule (see attached photo). Drill four holes in the capsule corresponding to the mounting holes of the control box. Zip ties are supplied to secure the control box to the headlight assembly. The motor output shaft is oversized and as result, the original motor door arm must be enlarged with a 3/8" drill bit. The motor arm should move freely on the motor shaft. Install the supplied 1/8" x 3/4" brass thrust bushing over the motor shaft. Install the supplied drive washers, plastic friction disks and your motor arm onto the output shaft in the following order: steel drive washer - two plastic friction disks - motor arm - two plastic friction disks - steel drive washer (refer to attached diagram). Slide the supplied cone washer onto the output shaft followed by the supplied washer. Torque the first ¼" jam nut to about two ft/lbs. or tight enough to allow the plastic friction disks to slip if there is significant binding in the motor arm. Then jam the second jam nut onto the shaft. Wiring: Yellow wire - Must be spliced to any low beam wire. On a stock RS this is the brown wire of the three terminal headlamp plug. White wire - Must be spliced to any high beam wire. On stock RS this is the green wire on the three terminal headlamp plug. Black wire - Is ground. Connect to any ground source (i.e. the headlamp housing). Red wire - Is the power supply to the motor and must be connected to a permanent non-switched (always on) power source. Connecting directly to the battery for the passenger side motor is recommended, while the horn relay works well for the driver side motor. A 5 Amp in-line fuse is strongly recommended. Optional: The high and low beam wires can be soldered directly to the high and low beam headlamp lugs. Re-connect the battery and enjoy your hideaway headlights. Notes: The motors will perform a diagnostic closing cycle during initial operation or after power has been disconnected. This is normal. All headlight motor operation is delayed 0.25 sec. This is normal. Specifications: Motor: DC, brushed. All metal with steel planetary reduction Electronics: SMT/"Through Hole". Static and surge hardened Voltage Range 11 -16 Vdc Temperature range: 0 - 220 F Current draw: Motor - 3 A max. Electronics - 0.01 A Short Protection: Internal fuse, non serviceable. Wiring: Aviation type, Tefzel/Teflon coated, 16 gauge, 410 F max. Disclaimer Proper installation should provide years of trouble free use. However, Retro-Electro, LLC assume no liability for any accidents, injury, damage or misfortune resulting from the use of this product.
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